A half century of Greek women promoting Greek food
by Katherine Boulukos
Over fifty years ago, a group of women decided that the time had come to write down the treasured Greek recipes in English that had been handed down to them from the families. “A cup of sugar, a fistful of flour, a touch of spice” was no longer acceptable, so they decided to research, test and write a book . Prior to that time, there was no definitive Greek cookbook written in English available.
In addition to their desire to record their traditional recipes, the women were all members of a new church community that had opened in Hempstead, New York. They decided that they would write a book and donate all the earnings to their church, St. Paul. The women called themselves “The Recipe Club of St. Paul.” The word “club” was a misnomer because it was a closed group of 25 women, and not an open membership type club. These women worked tirelessly to find the traditional recipes, test, and retest these recipes and select the best ones for their very first book. They absorbed all the expenses on their own. The book also included notes of the traditions and customs of the Orthodox Church.
Their very first book, self published, was called The Grecian Gourmet. It became an instant hit, nationally, because a copy was sent to Craig Claiborne, the food critic of the New York Times. His rave review in the Times about the book set off a wonderful response, so much so that it perked the interest of Doubleday and Co., who at that time, were interested in publishing a book on Greek food. They contacted The Recipe Club, and decided to publish the book as The Art of Greek Cooking (Doubleday & Co.). This was their second book.
After years of being a bestseller as an ethnic cookbook, the women decided to write a third book of new recipes. Several new women were invited to become members of the group to replace some of the members who had died or moved away. These women were also exceptional cooks who were excellent additions to the original group. Their third book was called The Regional Cuisines of Greece (Doubleday & Co.). The recipes in that book took a broader look at the regional foods of Greece. This book also became a best seller throughout the United States.
Since interest in Greek food continued throughout the country, the women decided to write a fourth book entitled The Complete Book of Greek Cooking, published by Harper Collins. This book includes the best recipes from their three prior books. However, the women adapted their recipes to use new food technologies (food processors, microwaves), and simplified the recipes to reflect the modern, busy lifestyle of households today. The recipes were all carefully retested and rewritten. They analyzed and reviewed the nutritive value of each recipe, and managed to reduce starch, sugar and fat quantities. Faster cooking methods were developed, and greater emphasis was placed on making advance preparation and freezing techniques. All the reworking did not compromise the end results: delicious food. Menus were included, and wine information was provided. In addition, drawings were added on the use of phyllo, that paper-thin dough so popular in Greek dishes, and on the rolling of grapevine leaves. In addition, religious information was included regarding foods and ceremonies associated to the Greek Orthodox faith.
Through all the years, it should be noted that all the food expenses in their testing, promoting and demonstrating were absorbed by the women. Furthermore, all their earnings have been given to their beloved St. Paul’s. These earnings, in the many thousands of dollars, have gone to the church. In the early years, money was given to reducing the church mortgage fund. Then they paid for other needs in the community. This included mosaic artwork which adorns the church interior, chandeliers, a state of the art organ, and a new, streamlined kitchen for the church hall. Most recently, they paid for a new walkway.
Fifty years of dedication to promoting Greek food is indeed a remarkable achievement. These women of The Recipe Club are unique. They have worked together on a common mission. They are lifelong friends. In a sense, they have bonded and gone through life together. Their love and commitment is truly remarkable.
Their first three books are no longer in print, and are considered “collector’s items.” Their current book, The Complete Book of Greek Cooking, continues to sell well in many bookstores like Barnes and Noble, online, and on Amazon.com. It is also sold through the church office, (110 Cathedral Avenue, Hempstead, NY.)
For additional information contact
K. Boulukos, 516 868 4092 or
kathybou@aol.com
862 guy Lombardo Avenue,
Freeport, NY 11520.
